Spring is winding its way to summer these days–and evidence is in the blooming flowers, pollen sprinkled like powder sugar on parked automobiles, in the increasing daylight hours, and increasing ambient temperatures. I am not a huge fan of summer and its heat, despite the season’s beauty, but there are always a handful of things that make this season a time of year I still enjoy greatly. Watermelons being one of them. And ice cream, too.
This is the time of year that ice cream can really shine, and I’d like to share an ice cream with you! Last year, I made a remarkable buttermilk ice cream–and today, I made an incredible malted milk ice cream.
I spotted a recipe for David Lebovit’z malted milk ice cream out of his book, Perfect Scoop on Ruhlman’s blog. I found Lebovitz’s headnote entrancing–so entrancing that I immediately decided to make his favorite malted milk ice cream:
I froze lots and lots and lots of ice cream when writing this book. It was a treat having freshly-made ice cream every day, but space in my freezer soon became an issue and after more than one frozen ‘brick’ of ice cream slipped out, which I always seemed to just narrowly avoid crashing down on my foot, I eventually realized that it was impossible (and a little dangerous) to coexist with too many flavors all at once. Consequently, I passed off lots of ice cream to friends, neighbors, local shopkeepers, and occasionally, a startled delivery man. All were more than happy to take a quart off my hands. But this Malted Milk Ice Cream was the one that I refused to part with, and I guarded it secretively, saving it all for myself.
I am a big fan of malted milk and malted ice cream. BIG fan. And so how could I resist?
I threw out the idea to our household, to smiles and nods. “How about I make some malted milk ice cream this weekend?” We went right to the store to gather the ingredients, which include malt balls (I already had malt powder) and lots of good whipping cream. I also picked up another carton of humane eggs.
This recipe includes a good amount of egg yolks, and the bulk of the cooking involves making the custard, as with most ice cream recipes. Because I love vanilla, and I like myself a softer ice cream, I doubled the amount of vanilla in the cream/malt powder/vanilla mix (for the record, I used Nielsen-Massey’s Tahitian vanilla, which reportedly fares best in chilled dishes).
(for the record, I use a Cuisinart ice cream maker–best bang for the buck–but don’t forget to put the container in the freezer the night before!)
The result? Delectable.
The malt flavor has a strong presence, and the malt balls add a delightful crunch and an added dimension to the malt flavor. There are several reasons I love to make ice cream at home: one of the reasons being that I have control over the ingredients and produce a fresher, more natural, more delicious product…and another being I can perhaps try out ice creams and flavors that aren’t sold in stores.
This is one of those ice creams.
Recipe follows after the jump…
Malted Milk Ice Cream
(adapted from David Lebovitz’s The Perfect Scoop, the Bible for ice cream recipes)
Makes about 1.5 quarts
1 cup half-and-half
2/3 cup sugar
2 cups heavy cream
1 tsp vanilla extract
3/4 cup malt powder
6 large egg yolks
2 cups (or as much as the ice cream hold!) malted milk balls, coarsely chopped
Warm the half-and-half with the sugar in a saucepan.
In a large bowl, whisk together the heavy cream, vanilla, and malt powder. Set sieve on top. (Christine’s note: set this aside–you will be adding the custard to this later on. The first time I made this recipe, I leapt ahead and added it to the custard, realizing I had to start all the way over, later–phooey).
In a separate bowl, whisk together the egg yolks. Add the warm mixture into the egg yolks, whisking constantly, then scrape the warmed egg yolks back into the saucepan.
Stir the mixture constantly over medium heat with a wooden or heatproof plastic spatula. do this until the mixture gets thick enough and coats the spatula.
Pour the custard through the sieve and whisk it into the malted milk mixture. Stir until cool over an ice bath. (I didn’t have ice cubes–I set the bowl over a cool marble pastry board and it cooled sufficiently).
Chill mixture in the refrigerator, then freeze in your ice cream maker. Fold in the malted milk balls when you remove it from the machine.